Footprints
The custom process starts with a print of your foot. This is a weight-bearing impression on an ink mat. An outline of each foot is drawn as well. About 6 landmarks are measured with a flexible tape. The prints with measurements will tell me the length and width of you feet, as well as their circumference and how your feet carry your weight.
Last Selection
I will select a last that I believe will be a good starting point for customization. We will work together to fine tune the fit, but first a new last is ordered for you. While many aspects of the fit can be customized, some dimensions of the last are fixed and can only be changed by ordering a different last to begin with. Heel height is one of those dimensions that can’t be changed significantly. For example, a shoe built on a last with a 1″ heel can not become a 2″ heel by simply adding a higher heel. The higher heel will throw off the balance for the rest of the last.
Vacuum Form
I usually make a vacuum form of the last to help validate our starting point. With your foot inside this clear mold, I will be able to see if your feet press the borders of the lasts and if so, how much. We mark this up together with a sharpie and modifications are made accordingly.
Last Modification
All modifications are incorporated directly onto the lasts. The wooden lasts are sanded down or built up or sometimes a combination of both. Once the fit is as you like, more shoes can be made with exactly the same fit each time. Different colors and styles as well as low shoes or even ankle boots can all be made from the same last.
Trial Shoes
Fit modifications and the pattern are tested with trial shoes. Trial shoes are made of less expensive material than the final shoes and are primarily to give you the opportunity to preview the fit. You will wear them for two weeks or so and also mark them up as needed to indicate where they are too tight, too loose or whatever. It takes some time to get a feel for them and only you can judge how they feel. There is no hurry to finish this phase. Depending on what modifications are required as a result of the trial shoes, as second pair of trial shoes may be made. We work hard together to get the fit right.
The pictures on this page were from the process of making pair 28. You can find more pictures of completed shoes under Shoe Stories.