Derby design with French quarters. Welted construction, Italian vegetable tanned brown leather vamp and blue quarters. Leather insole and midsole. Vibram Gumlite outsole for a little extra cushion. Casual or formal? I think it’s right on the edge. The rubber sole and the more rounded curve of the toe suggests it’s more casual than formal.
Classic Derby design with English quarters. Welted construction, brown Italian vegetable tanned leather upper, leather insole and Rendenbach leather outsole. Check out the natural color braided hand stitching on the welt. (Thanks for our friends at A&E for the hand sewing thread) Top line is extra high to allow for orthotic insert.
This is part of a series of shoemaking workshops. Take all the workshops and learn how to make shoes from start to finish, or just the one(s) that interest you.
There are many different types of shoe construction, the most common of which is using adhesives, also known in the trade as “cement construction.” You will learn how to form a shoe upper around a last (lasting), how to make and last the supporting components like heel counters and toe puffs, how to attach it all to the insole, and finally attach unit soles with integrated heel.
Date: Friday, Saturday & Sunday TBA
Time: 9am – 5pm
Space is limited, please register.
Upper is green and brown vegetable tanned leather with an iridescent finish. Classic Gibson boot design. Welted construction, leather insole and Rendenbach leather outsole. The making of these boots was featured in Tim Becker’s Life at Large segment for KOIN TV.
Upper is blue and brown vegetable tanned leather with an iridescent finish. Welted construction, leather midsole and Vibram Gumlite sole. My client wanted a design reminiscent of the Eurasian Kingfisher, a bird with dominant blue coloring and accents of orange brown on the chest and tail. In addition to the kingfisher colors, this design features a sweeping wing of blue as the vamp approaches the back strap.
This custom shoe started with my client’s preference for a specific type of leather. The upper for this boot is Cordovan (also known as Shell Cordovan) from the Horween tannery. The colors are their standard black and the deep reddish brown that is so famous that most people think the name of the color is synonymous with the name of the leather. There is a lot of confusion around what it means when someone asks for Cordovan.
Horween actually calls this reddish brown color Color 8. Maybe this is because in the 1930 edition of “A Dictionary of Color” by Maerz and Paul, Cordovan is listed as a color on page 39, Plate 8, Color Sample H8.
Many people think cordovan refers to the color only, but cordovan also refers to horse leather made from the hide over the horse butt. The upper for this boot is both Cordovan leather and partly Cordovan in color.
I have made some boots and shoes in a similar style, but my client had ideas of his own about combining the two styles. We worked together to adjust the look to his preferences. I made designs for his review. He made suggestions and I made revisions. It was a fruitful collaboration, which resulted in, I believe, a very tasteful design.
Oh yeah, he also wanted to mount some sophisticated clipless pedal cleats to these boots. He didn’t want them too stiff such that walking would be difficult or too soft such that the pedals pushed into the boots. Of course the cleats needed to be recessed so as not to scrape the ground while walking. That engineering on that part was all me and I enjoyed it thoroughly.
Vegetable tanned kangaroo upper, vegetable tanned calf liner, cement construction. Vibram composite sole. These are custom shoes with an extra hidden feature for riding a bike with clip and strap pedals.
The vegetable tanned cow upper is also fully lined with vegetable tanned cow for extra durability. Welted construction stitched to the midsole using a braided stitch. A Vibram Gumlite unit sole is attached on over the mid-sole.
Upper is vegetable tanned brown Bosco and blue Alba Tamponato leather from the La Ruota tannery in Italy. Welted construction, leather midsole and Vibram Gumlite sole.
Deep green upper, vegetable tanned calf liner. English welt and single stitching. Italian Nubuk soling leather. These use the hidden stitch technique on the sole side of the welt. The thread is embedded but not visible.