These oxfords were made for a young woman who wanted a no-compromise scholarly classic shoe for all seasons. No hothouse flower, she wanted all the benefits of a full thickness leather sole, but didn’t want to expose it to the elements without some protection. Covering the sole of the forefoot is some thin but tough Vibram composite material. It has good grip and will minimize absorption of water from the street when there’s rain on the pavement. She’s tough on shoes, so I secured the Vibram under the heel to protect it since she is as likely wear loose with the pedals of her bike as scrape it off stepping on a shovel.
There is very little welt extending beyond the profile of the shoe as seen from above and yet it is full welt sewn construction. One small benefit of sewing the welt to the outsole by hand is the ability to place the stitches very close to the upper. Most machines need more clearance, thus the welt tends to be a bit wider when it is actually sewn.
I’m calling this a full brogue even though there are more opportunities to brogue this upper — like along the quarters and the top line. I thought it was enough brogueing already.
The upper is hand dyed top finished vegetable tanned Italian leather. Blue quarters and tongue, black toe caps, vamps, and backstraps. This pair was built using cement construction. These shoes are unlined with sewn in heel counters and toe boxes. Leather sole and heels, Virbram rubber heel cap. I used this pair for my “All the Pieces” infographic.
Upper is blue and brown vegetable tanned leather with an iridescent finish. Welted construction, leather midsole and Vibram Gumlite sole. My client wanted a design reminiscent of the Eurasian Kingfisher, a bird with dominant blue coloring and accents of orange brown on the chest and tail. In addition to the kingfisher colors, this design features a sweeping wing of blue as the vamp approaches the back strap.
Vegetable tanned kangaroo upper, vegetable tanned calf liner, cement construction. Vibram composite sole. These are custom shoes with an extra hidden feature for riding a bike with clip and strap pedals.
The vegetable tanned cow upper is also fully lined with vegetable tanned cow for extra durability. Welted construction stitched to the midsole using a braided stitch. A Vibram Gumlite unit sole is attached on over the mid-sole.
Upper is vegetable tanned brown Bosco and blue Alba Tamponato leather from the La Ruota tannery in Italy. Welted construction, leather midsole and Vibram Gumlite sole.
Deep green upper, vegetable tanned calf liner. English welt and single stitching. Italian Nubuk soling leather. These use the hidden stitch technique on the sole side of the welt. The thread is embedded but not visible.
Green Italian vegetable tanned leather with an iridescent finish. The lining is vegetable tanned calf. Italian soling leather, leather heels, cement construction.
Blue Italian vegetable tanned leather with an iridescent finish. The lining is vegetable tanned calf. German soling leather, leather heels.
Water buffalo leather upper, vegetable tanned calf liner, English welt and German soling leather.