Casual Summer Oxford (Pair Number 30)

This is the second revision of a pattern I’ve been working on. It’s the summer shoe I’ve always wanted. Light, versatile, good looking and good ventilation. It’s made from veg-tan cow (blue) and veg-tan calf (black). It has a veg-tan toe cap, veg-tan insole and footbed liner, but rubber Vibram Gumlite sole.

I learned something interesting this time about how the number of eyelets affects the lacing pattern on oxfords. Since it’s a size 38, quite a bit smaller than the size 42 of pair 29, I cut a pair of eyelets. With an odd number, it means the lace has to go diagonally once to complete the proper oxford looping lacing pattern.

When oxfords fit, the quarters usually meet in the center (see pair 19 on the home page) and you never see a diagonal lace, if one is needed. One problem with the oxford design is that the tongue falls down easily, so it needs to be sewn to the liner or somehow supported. I made a loop in the tongue of pair 29, after it was finished, which I thought complemented its casual appearance. In pair 29 the lace goes straight from eyelet to eyelet through the loop that holds up the tongue.

With 5 eyelets instead of 6, I realized that there would be a diagonal lace showing across the tongue. Yikes. Because I didn’t pre-cut the loop in the tongue when I made this pair, I was relieved to find it came to the rescue when positioned for the diagonal lace. It hides the diagonal lace elegantly. I simply got lucky. If you’re making a casual oxford design, consider carefully how the number of eyelets relates to the lacing pattern. In the picture here (click to enlarge) you can see the lace peeking ever so slightly from behind the loop.

I have been considering making these in fixed sizes and at a price lower than custom pricing. Is there interest?