Tag: welted
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Two Eyelet Ankle Boot
Importantly, the design was by my client. He had a very clear idea of what he wanted. The stitch length (3mm) and distance from the edge of the upper (2mm) and even the reinforcement stitches (3.5mm). Distance between the quarters when laced. ~15mm. The open, and the reinforcement stitches are set really way back. Much…
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Full Metal Brace Shoe
Full metal braces drive these shoes. I never thought I would make shoes like this, but the guy who needed them rather charmed me. He had Polio when he was 4 and has been getting around on braces ever since. Now over 80, any of his contemporaries, or older shoemakers with experience with these kinds…
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Color 8 Cordovan Derby Boots
The client requesting these boots wanted a roomy fit in the front, but also needed room for an orthotic insert that takes a fair amount of room in the back. I really like the quality of this particular orthotic. It is better than most I have seen. At the last minute, he requested a bit…
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Red Cordovan Derby Boots
These custom boots, made for winter use, feature a basalt fiber shank which covers the entire heel and arch area, giving very solid support. I have recently started making shanks and reinforcing components using basalt fiber because it’s much safer to work with than carbon fiber. I assembled this pair using welted construction. The welt…
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Lis Royal – Rocinante – Cordovan Derby
I was given a sample cordovan shell from a tannery in Argentina called Lis Royal. The line of cordovan leather is called Rocinante the color is “Dark Brown.” It is a lovely dark brown. I’ve written about cordovan before, but this sample was my first opportunity to make a pair of cordovan shoes for myself.
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Two tone cordovan wingtips
I made these two tone cordovan wingtips for a client who really wanted dress shoes, but he has wider than average feet, and much wider than average heels. He had never found a dress shoe that fit. The uppers feature quite a bit of broguing. Broguing is often done with a tool that has a…
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Reddish Brown Full Brogue
These oxfords were made for a young woman who wanted a no-compromise scholarly classic shoe for all seasons. No hothouse flower, she wanted all the benefits of a full thickness leather sole, but didn’t want to expose it to the elements without some protection. Covering the sole of the forefoot is some thin but tough…
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Black Derby
This derby shoe was made for instructional purposes. Plain old black upper leather with a pebble grain, basic lines with English quarters. The construction is welted and hand sewn to a vegetable tanned leather outsole. Natural finish leather heels. Straight outsole stitch on the welt. Depending on what you wear it with and your mood,…
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Red Derby
These shoes were for a female client who wanted a woman’s shoe without compromises. She likes knitting and needlepoint so I tried to put something special into the design for her. This derby design with English quarters features an ornamental stitch similar to a wheat ear embroidery stitch on the wing tip toe cap and…
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Blue and Brown Derby
Derby design with French quarters. Welted construction, Italian vegetable tanned brown leather vamp and blue quarters. Leather insole and midsole. Vibram Gumlite outsole for a little extra cushion. Casual or formal? I think it’s right on the edge. The rubber sole and the more rounded curve of the toe suggests it’s more casual than formal.